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How to change the PCV o-ring on '96-'98 models
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mr2crazed
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PostPosted: Fri Dec 18, 2009 1:45 am    Post subject: How to change the PCV o-ring on '96-'98 models Reply with quote

I conquered the PCV o-ring replacement on my ’98 MPV and enclosed are the steps and supplies I needed. All the gaskets were obtained from my local Mazda dealer and had to be ordered.

I cannot guarantee your results will be the same as mine but overall the job wasn’t too bad. It took me maybe 6 combined hours that I spread out for like a week because I forgot to order the throttle body and BAC valve gaskets. Here are the part numbers and the price I paid, again your prices may differ:

JF01-10-235A Pass. Valve cover gasket $26.11
JF01-10-237 Valve cover washer (qty. 7) $4.00 ea.
JF03-10-483 Blank distributor plug o-ring $9.99
9954-10-3207 PCV or oil sep. o-ring $8.45
JE96-13-135 Intake plenum gasket $17.77
J503-13-655 Throttle body gasket $13.00
JE96-20-661 BAC valve gasket $12.00
About 2 feet of vacuum line (a lot more than needed but better safe than sorry).
Gasket sealer to hold the valve cover gasket into the cover, I used spray gasket sealer.
10mm & 12mm sockets
Torque wrench
Pliers (regular and needle nose)
Screwdrivers

I found out later there’s gasket set (includes valve covers, washers, and o-rings) that can be ordered but it doesn’t include the throttle body and BAC valve gaskets. I don’t have a part number for the set but Mazda of Escondido is where I saw the listing on ebay.

Step 1. Disconnect the negative battery terminal. I didn’t which may the reason why I had a CEL once I was done but a day later the CEL was off

Step 2. Remove the snorkel from the air filter to the throttle body. You’ll notice a few large vacuum lines that need to be pulled as well.

Step 3. Remove the throttle cable from the throttle body and unbolt the cable from the plenum (Mazda calls the plenum a dynamic chamber). Next remove the throttle body and BAC valve from the front of plenum. I left the coolant lines attached to these 2 items, figured less to take off the better. See photo:




Step 4. Remove the spark plug wires from the plugs and distributor cap. Be sure to remember where they go.

Step 5. From the driver’s side remove the vacuum line to the brake booster and the 2 small vacuum lines going to the vacuum chamber. See photo:




Then remove the 4 connectors going to the VRIS and PRC solenoids. Note: the connections for the PRC solenoids are the same but the cables are different. The one with the black end goes towards the front of the engine. See photo:





Step 6. From the passenger side remove the vacuum lines for the cruise control module, PCV valve, and the purge solenoid valve.




Then remove the connector from the side of the plenum, see photo:




Step 7. The hardest part is removing the 2 vacuum lines from fuel pressure regulator from under the rear side of the plenum. I tried to get a picture when it was assembled but couldn’t get the camera in there. So here’s a few with the plenum removed to get an idea where it is. Note: if the plenum hasn’t been removed before these lines will most likely break because of being extremely brittle. Mine broke and took a sample to my local parts store to get about 2 feet of replacement line.





Step 8. Remove the 6 bolts from the top of the plenum and carefully lift the plenum from the intake. Remember if those fuel regulator vacuum lines weren’t removed they will break at this step, mine did. Those lines run to metal nipples so the cracking sound is probably the vacuum lines breaking.

Step 9. Unplug the harness going to the fuel injectors. The cable for the rear injector is routed under the fuel line, see photos:





Step 10. Remove oil dipstick and the harness mounting plate from on top of the valve cover. Note: you don’t need to remove the fuel lines. Once the plate is loose, the 7 valve cover bolts can be removed. Carefully lift the valve cover and slide to the rear to clear the timing belt cover. Then guide the cover away from the fuel lines and pull out the cover.

Step 11. Remove the nut securing the blank distributor port & then remove the bolt from the PCV port. To get around the fuel pressure regulator I used a short 10mm socket and placed it on the bolt then angled a ¼ drive extension into the end of the socket. Lightly tap on the PCV and blank ports with a rubber hammer to break any seal. The PCV simply pulled off for me but the blank plug took some work with a plastic scraper to wedge underneath. The batteries in my camera died, so I don’t have photos of the blank port and PCV port removal. Here's a picture of everything out.




Step 12. At this point remove the old o-rings and clean the surfaces with your favorite degreaser. Don’t forget the valve cover gasket surfaces.

Step 13. Install new o-rings and mount the PCV & blank ports into the head. Tap them in with a rubber hammer and secure them with their appropriate nut/bolt.

Step 14. Since I used spray gasket sealer, I sprayed the one side of the gasket that goes into the valve cover. After allowing the sealer to set I installed it into the cover. Carefully guide the cover onto the head and install the 7 bolts with the new washers. DO NOT over tighten the valve cover bolts, torque to 31-39 in. lbs (which is only 2.6-3.25 ft. lbs). Formula for converting inch pounds to foot pounds is to divide the inch pound number by 12.

Step 15. Reattach the harness mount onto the valve cover and plug in the fuel injectors. Be sure to route the rear most fuel injector connector under the fuel line as pictured above.

Step 16. Install the plenum with the new gasket and torque the 6 bolts to 14-18 ft. lbs. Install the throttle body with new gasket and also torque to 14-18 ft. lbs. Now install the BAC valve with new gasket and torque to 70-95.4 in. lbs. (5.8-7.5 ft. lbs).

Step 17. If your fuel regulator vacuum lines broke you’ll need to cut a 3.5in piece for the lower line and about 2.5in piece for the upper. This was probably the hardest part of the whole install. Had to borrow my wife’s mirror to see what I was doing.

Step 18. Follow the removal process in reverse. Reconnect your battery, start it up and check for leaks.
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nhzruthless818
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PostPosted: Fri Dec 18, 2009 5:30 pm    Post subject: Re: How to change the PCV o-ring on '96-'98 models Reply with quote

great post.
1996 Mazda MPV 2WD
K&N Air Filter
Ngk performance wireset and iridium plugs
Full Sound System
H.I.D Headlights and Custom Fogs 8000k
Bosch Horns replicas (behind grille)
Full Interior and License Plate LED
Blue LED Cluster
Mercedes Home-link mirror retrofitted
oil catch can installed

1997 Mercedes Benz S500V
M119 5.0L AMG Conversion
255/45R18 Front
285/40R18 Rear
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duck9090
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PostPosted: Mon Dec 21, 2009 1:05 pm    Post subject: Re: How to change the PCV o-ring on '96-'98 models Reply with quote

Great write ups spplause spplause
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98MPVUSER
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PostPosted: Tue Jan 12, 2010 2:07 pm    Post subject: Re: How to change the PCV o-ring on '96-'98 models Reply with quote

so if I was using say Autozone or Advance auto parts, where would I look for the PCV o-ring. Also, what size Vaccum line did you get. I have to replace the driverside Exhaust manifold, so I figure if I have to take the top half of the Intake manifold off I might as well replace these as a preventative maintence. But like I said, I can see there is a valve cover gasket kit that comes with some other gasket, put I can't find a PCV valve o-ring or such.
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mr2crazed
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PostPosted: Tue Jan 12, 2010 3:30 pm    Post subject: Re: How to change the PCV o-ring on '96-'98 models Reply with quote

98MPVUSER wrote:
so if I was using say Autozone or Advance auto parts, where would I look for the PCV o-ring. Also, what size Vaccum line did you get. I have to replace the driverside Exhaust manifold, so I figure if I have to take the top half of the Intake manifold off I might as well replace these as a preventative maintence. But like I said, I can see there is a valve cover gasket kit that comes with some other gasket, put I can't find a PCV valve o-ring or such.


I would recommend getting OEM gaskets/o-rings as I've found by searching here do not last too long. As for the vacuum line, not sure what size I picked. I just brought in a sample piece to my local Autozone and they provided me a match.

1998 Mazda MPV 2wd
2006 Toyota Tacoma Prerunner double cab
1991 Toyota MR2 non-turbo
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Manitoba MPV
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PostPosted: Tue Jan 12, 2010 9:09 pm    Post subject: Re: How to change the PCV o-ring on '96-'98 models Reply with quote

Great post!

This one should be a sticky up there with the timing belt how-to's!

Manitoba MPV

'82 GLC 1.5 5-speed ('82 - '95); '79 GLC Sport 1.4 5-speed ('87 - '89); '85 626 2.0 5-speed ('97 - '05); '90 MPV 2WD 2.6 5-speed ('96 - '01); '95 Bawngo GL Super 9 pass 2.0 5-speed ('03 - '04); '97 AllSport 2WD 3.0 auto ('01 - ?); '01 Protege 1.6 5-speed ('05 - '13); '09 Mazda 5 GT 5-speed ('13 - ?)
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98MPVUSER
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PostPosted: Sun Jan 17, 2010 11:41 am    Post subject: Re: How to change the PCV o-ring on '96-'98 models Reply with quote

So I went ahead and deleted some of my posts that weren't important, so that this thread, if turned into a sticky doesn't have useless info. But now on to stuff that does matter.

The 2 hoses that will snap, (don't waste your time, just let them) they happen to be 7/32 vacuum hose. I only got a foot, and had at least 4 inches left. Total cost 93 cents thats with tax (tax will be different by state).


Now here is something that I'm going to put in bold, and it only applies to those that will choice to replace the drivers side valve cover gasket.

The distributor will have to be removed in order for you to get the cover out. It also is a simple 12mm bolt. Now here is the important part, REMOVE THE CAP. (This will save you trouble in the end, I will get to that). This way you are able to see the rotor movement as you reinstall it. Now I say remove the cap so that you can see the rotor movement because, when you go to reinstall it, the gear is going to move at least a cylinder (1/4 turn) going back in. If you don't have this marked, your going to throw your timing off, and its won't start.


I just finished doing all this work, I ended up having to replace the drivers side exhaust manifold, and figured if I had to remove the intake plenum to access the manifold connection tube I might as will do this as a PM.

Well after getting everything finished, I went to start the car and nothing happened. Now you would think that the Distributor would just slide back into its normal position since you didn't mess with the gear. Nope. I ended up having to pull the Distributor, then marked where the rotor is in TDC, I then adjust the rotor to the cylinder 2 position. I then put the engine at TDC, then reinstalled the Dis. back in, and as it was going in, it adjusted close to TDC. I then adjust it to line up exact TDC and then tighten the bolt.

So just in case, here's your sign.
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koyamike
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PostPosted: Mon Feb 01, 2010 8:52 am    Post subject: Re: How to change the PCV o-ring on '96-'98 models Reply with quote

Anyone have a diagram or pictures of the vacumn line routing around the PRC/VRS solenoids and to the fuel pressure regulator? My mechanic changed my timing belt and I have a CEL about the O2 sensor and the engine is running bad. Already found one of the vacumn lines from the black vacumn tank to the PRC solenoid off. I found only one vacumn line was on the fuel pressure regulator(one of the two that break at back of the plenum).

Thanks.
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waggeddog
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PostPosted: Wed Oct 13, 2010 10:19 pm    Post subject: Re: How to change the PCV o-ring on '96-'98 models Reply with quote

I just replaced my O rings and I am so sorry that you had to do so much work to replace the O rings. I guess I got lucky, I used a 10mm 1/4'' ratchet 1/4 extension 5'' long with a 1/4 inch swivel to do the job and it reached from the back of the engine I had to hold the socket in place while I turned the bolt loose. and of course I had to remove the pass side valve cover, which came of easy after I removed the bracket for the fuel line and plug wires from valve cover. I also added a glob of gasket sealer on the pcv housing, it will never leak again.
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Cybersombosis
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PostPosted: Thu Oct 14, 2010 12:46 am    Post subject: Re: How to change the PCV o-ring on '96-'98 models Reply with quote

waggeddog wrote:
I just replaced my O rings and I am so sorry that you had to do so much work to replace the O rings. I guess I got lucky, I used a 10mm 1/4'' ratchet 1/4 extension 5'' long with a 1/4 inch swivel to do the job and it reached from the back of the engine I had to hold the socket in place while I turned the bolt loose. and of course I had to remove the pass side valve cover, which came of easy after I removed the bracket for the fuel line and plug wires from valve cover. I also added a glob of gasket sealer on the pcv housing, it will never leak again.


I agree that you don't have to do all that work to change out your 2 O rings. This post actually scared me about doing it but I tried without the removal of the intake manifold and it worked!!! Here is a step by step that I posted in another thread so that we can keep all this info in one place.

"I just did the o rings on my '97 for the blanking plate and PCV this past weekend and it was a bugger to get to some of the hidden bolts but you can do it without removing everything. Here is a step by step that I took. Sorry I didn't take pics.

1. Blanking plate is very easy. First off you have to remove a bolt (8mm I think) that is holding a 4mm tube that encircles the blanking plate and PCV. I don't know if this is on everyone's but it was on mine and it was in the way. Unfortunately it is attached on a stud and you have to pry it up over the stud to get it out of the way. Why they didn't just do a bolt is beyond me. It's flexible enough to push it out of the way.

2. Next on to the blanking plate. Just undo the bolt (8mm iirc) and gently pry up on one of the edges of the blanking plate. Mine popped right out after working it with the flat head on 2 different sides

3. Remove the o-ring and clean off the crud. I used a pick. It was hard but not brittle. It had lost its elasticity. Replace o-ring and pop it back in and bolt it down

4. On to the tough part. Undo the bolt on PCV. In order to get to it you will need a u-joint attached to your socket with a 3 inch extension. I used a 1/4 inch ratchet as the 3/8 is just too large for the space. My bolt was really tight and I thought I didn't have the right angle for the U joint but with some force it broke free. It takes forever as there is a very small degree of angle to work with but eventually it came out.

At this point I tried to remove the PCV but it would just hit the valve cover. Why did they do this I asked myself and swore that I was going to grind that bugger off.

5. On to the valve cover. Remove the front 4 bolts as normal. Top front corner is easy. Top back corner you can get to with a 3/4 inch ratchet/no extension. The PITA is the one hidden under the wiring and intake manifold. In order to release the tension in the wiring, I had to undo the two bolts that are attached to the valve cover that holds a bracket that the wiring loom is secured to. At first before removing it though I thought there was only 1 bolt and I pulled up on it and used it as a handle to release the valve cover which was a nice surprise.

After undoing the second bolt to the bracket, I could maneuver the wiring just enough so that I could get my 1/4 inch ratchet with U joint and extension to fit just right to get that last bolt. Boy was it frustrating just getting the socket on to the bolt. Lots of pushing and pulling the wiring whilst holding onto the socket to guide it.

6. Once the last bolt is off you can make your way to the PCV. I took the hose that is clamped onto the intake manifold off so that it wouldn't break. I removed the clamp and used my pick to gently pull the hose off the nipple. Gotta love the pick.

7. Now remove the PCV by twisting it. It should "break" the seal. Lift as you twist back and forth and it will slowly come out. Once the PCV has come out of it's hole, it should hit the valve cover. Now gently pop the valve cover up and the PCV should come right out. Again use a pick to remove the o-ring and clean up all the crud. Put new o-ring on and install in reverse.

I don't know if the valve cover gasket will hold up once you remove the cover and put it back on but I really didn't want to get into removing the throttle body and intake manifold. I just wanted the oil stink to go away. I will keep everyone posted though if the smell comes back or not but as a final goodbye to the crud build up on the engine and to ensure that I could check to see if anything was leaking anew, I gave her a bath and degreased the engine bay and power wash the grime away from the top and the bottom. Here's hoping the burning oil smell stays away. "

Doug

97' MPV All Sport 4x4
Black Widow 1600 Alarm, Uhaul class 3 tow hitch, K&N air filter, Bi Xenon HID retrofit.
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98MPVRED
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PostPosted: Thu Oct 14, 2010 9:38 am    Post subject: Re: How to change the PCV o-ring on '96-'98 models Reply with quote

could you do a post on how you got that engine so clean! I'd like to clean mine but am afraid of a legacy of strange engine check conditions and other nasties after water has gotten into the multitude of connectors under the hood.
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johnateb
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PostPosted: Sat May 12, 2012 2:40 am    Post subject: Re: How to change the PCV o-ring on '96-'98 models Reply with quote

Great thread! Logging a successful replacement of the blanking (blind distributor) and PCV o-rings, without a lot of work following Cybersombosis' 2010 post above. Thanks much! Purchased replacement o-rings from Mazda ($22 for both). A few things I can add:

A mirror comes in handy in removing the blanking plate in that, once the nut is removed, you can evenly pry the plate out. I found otherwise the plate tended to tilt and jam, I could not see the problem until I used the mirror.

A catastrophic error in removing the PCV port (oil separator) resulted in shearing the top off the port, leaving the pilot with o-ring lying at the bottom of the separator. This fitting is cast aluminum and doesn't tolerate whacking with a soft mallet to loosen it. Sad I spent several hours trying to fish the sheared-off piece out of the separator, then realized the adjoining blanking plate hole was the larger of the two, and it could be removed through there. Web-searchable junkyards are a wonderful invention; I located my model and picked up a used port for $7.

I was able to re-torque all the loosened valve cover bolts to specs (inch-lbs!) using a combination of short 10mm socket on 1/4 inch universal coupled to a long 3/8" extension.

So far, the re-tightened valve cover has not leaked... gaskets must be a lot better than they used to be.
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Cybersombosis
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PostPosted: Sat May 12, 2012 4:20 pm    Post subject: Re: How to change the PCV o-ring on '96-'98 models Reply with quote

johnateb wrote:
Great thread! Logging a successful replacement of the blanking (blind distributor) and PCV o-rings, without a lot of work following Cybersombosis' 2010 post above. Thanks much! Purchased replacement o-rings from Mazda ($22 for both). A few things I can add:

A mirror comes in handy in removing the blanking plate in that, once the nut is removed, you can evenly pry the plate out. I found otherwise the plate tended to tilt and jam, I could not see the problem until I used the mirror.

A catastrophic error in removing the PCV port (oil separator) resulted in shearing the top off the port, leaving the pilot with o-ring lying at the bottom of the separator. This fitting is cast aluminum and doesn't tolerate whacking with a soft mallet to loosen it. Sad I spent several hours trying to fish the sheared-off piece out of the separator, then realized the adjoining blanking plate hole was the larger of the two, and it could be removed through there. Web-searchable junkyards are a wonderful invention; I located my model and picked up a used port for $7.

I was able to re-torque all the loosened valve cover bolts to specs (inch-lbs!) using a combination of short 10mm socket on 1/4 inch universal coupled to a long 3/8" extension.

So far, the re-tightened valve cover has not leaked... gaskets must be a lot better than they used to be.


Thanks I'm glad the walkthrough helped you out.

Too bad about the PVC elbow but no where do I mention a mallet banghead. It should have come out with a back and forth twisting motion with just your hands and no tools. Glad you found a replacement though.

On a side note though there are three more O-Rings that need replacing on the front of the engine that I didn't find out about until later. One on the opposite side blanking plate and the 2 distributor O-Rings. There is still an oil leak around that area so I'll have to dig into that one weekend along with the HLAs on the driver's side and valve cover gasket. Unfortunately that requires removal of the intake manifold. That is a day project that will have to wait until the wife isn't using the van to truck around the kids.

Doug

97' MPV All Sport 4x4
Black Widow 1600 Alarm, Uhaul class 3 tow hitch, K&N air filter, Bi Xenon HID retrofit.
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bed7526
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PostPosted: Mon Jul 23, 2012 8:18 pm    Post subject: Re: How to change the PCV o-ring on '96-'98 models Reply with quote

Wish I saw this earlier. Searched several times and found it via google, not on MVPClub.com search.

Need help on placement of valve cover bolts. 5 long 2 short, where do the short ones go?

97 MPV White/Gray All Sport 172k+
2002 LE Corolla

2002 Blue Seinna (totaled Son OK)
2001 Toyota Corrolla Sport Engine died sold
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arithmetik
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PostPosted: Tue Oct 17, 2017 1:02 pm    Post subject: Re: How to change the PCV o-ring on '96-'98 models Reply with quote

Cybersombosis wrote:

1. Blanking plate is very easy. First off you have to remove a bolt (8mm I think) that is holding a 4mm tube that encircles the blanking plate and PCV. I don't know if this is on everyone's but it was on mine and it was in the way. Unfortunately it is attached on a stud and you have to pry it up over the stud to get it out of the way. Why they didn't just do a bolt is beyond me. It's flexible enough to push it out of the way.



Any idea on the purpose of that tube/pipe? It's tiny and seems to terminate above the valve cover, but on my MPV doesn't have anything connected to it...
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