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2001 MPV Noise Identification -- please?
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2001VanDriver
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PostPosted: Sat Aug 11, 2012 9:37 am    Post subject: 2001 MPV Noise Identification -- please? Reply with quote

Hello all. My van is in the shop, again, to try to figure out the cause of a noise that it's making. So far in the last two months, it's had the wheel bearings on both fronts (left twice, 2nd mechanic said the first one, a month ago, was put on badly) and the CV(?) hanger axle replaced. Went to pick it up after over $1000 worth of service on Thursday and it still makes the same sound. (mechanic says that doing those things fixed other sounds so they were totally necessary)

It happens sometimes after starting and then randomly when driving, though I have to admit that I'm not sure exactly what the conditions are that it occurs. The latest mechanic drove it Friday and says it appears to be when he backs off the accelerator. He thinks that it's either the transmission or possibly caused by a frozen strut.

I was searching around on the internet and found a video, which shows the EXACT sound that my van makes. It sounds just like my van. However, I'm not sure from the comments what exactly the problem was and how it was resolved, as I run into the same problem that another commenter had - when I search for "throttle control" I get results that confuse me about what the throttle control actually is. (I'm not very mechanically inclined)

Video Link: http://youtu.be/TXdA_NE_u0E

I'm not sure if this is the "foghorn" noise that is referenced so often on this forum.


Anyway, I'd appreciate any assistance!

Other symptoms, no idea if they're related or not or if they've been resolved by anything that's been done:

** It also has (and has had, for years) a recurring problem with hesitation. I'm not sure if the hesitation is fixed after new spark plugs & wires, because while it didn't do it on our test drive Thursday, it doesn't do it every time you drive it.
The hesitation is much as described on numerous threads - when accelerating quickly (as to merge or cross traffic) and especially when accelerating uphills. It doesn't matter how long the van has been driven, and it doesn't usually do it when you first start off easily (as driving down my driveway or in a parking lot).
It seems to skip and lose power and then ZOOM off once it catches.


** It idles loudly. It used to be very quiet but now it's loud, I've noticed that it often seems to have a fairly high RPM at idle but, as I'm not mechanically inclined, I couldn't tell you what the number is.

** It seems to be very hot. We don't have a paved driveway and anywhere I park, if it's left running for even a short length of time has a burned spot, degree of burning is determined by how long it idles there. In the 9 years I've had it, it's never lived on a "real" driveway, always parked in grass or dirt and the burning the grass is new within the last year.

** There is a little rubber cap that gets cracks in it. It went years without cracking but now I have to replace it every couple months (from extra heat?). The first time it was replaced, I believe it made a difference in the hesitating. Now I don't know if I'm remembering incorrectly.
I couldn't find a picture that shows it clearly but the red circle is the location - it sticks off towards the driver's side, blocking off an open leg of the .. whatever it is... little dohicky thing.



That's all I can think of right now of how it runs.
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2001VanDriver
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PostPosted: Tue Aug 14, 2012 10:27 am    Post subject: $50 drive across the road.... Reply with quote

Partial vent / partial bump of the thread.

I went ahead and decided to get the strut replaced and called a few places for pricing. Anywhere I take it that is not the current mechanic will charge me for another alignment, which the current place will redo at no charge (since I have an alignment charge on the bill now). I chose to leave it where it is for the strut and got the pricing on the part - turns out that mechanic charges $181 for the part. They get it at O'Reilly's that is literally across the street from them. I can buy it from O'Reilly's and take it to the mechanic for $132.

Craziness. I guess that's why the mechanic's labor is lower than other places.
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rollie1960
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Location: Houston, Texas, USA, Planet Earth

PostPosted: Wed Aug 15, 2012 3:25 pm    Post subject: Re: 2001 MPV Noise Identification -- please? Reply with quote

Hey is any members need work done on there rides PM me I know of a good tech that doesn't charge much and I get no cut backs im just trying to help a Mazda brother out.
Rolie
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Pele
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Location: Woodbridge, Virginia, u.s.a

PostPosted: Wed Aug 15, 2012 8:34 pm    Post subject: Re: 2001 MPV Noise Identification -- please? Reply with quote

2001VanDriver wrote:
Hello all. My van is in the shop, again, to try to figure out the cause of a noise that it's making. So far in the last two months, it's had the wheel bearings on both fronts (left twice, 2nd mechanic said the first one, a month ago, was put on badly) and the CV(?) hanger axle replaced. Went to pick it up after over $1000 worth of service on Thursday and it still makes the same sound. (mechanic says that doing those things fixed other sounds so they were totally necessary)


You'll have a total of four CV Joints under the car. There are two per side on the axle half-shafts that lead from the transaxle to the center of the wheels. They have rubber accordion shaped boots on them. The boots are full of grease and after some time, the rubber breaks open and the grease comes out.

CV half-shafts are designed to transmit the power from the drivetrain to the wheels. The CV Joints allow the axle to drive the wheels as the front wheels turn left or right and bounce up and down over bumps in the road.

CV Joints will make a clicking noise while the vehicle is under power. The noise is most usually noticed when making tight turns while accelerating.

See the beginning of this video:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=fTnbrxdCKB0


Wheel bearings will also only make noise while the vehicle is moving. It's usually a grinding noise that you'll notice at low speeds.

The best bet to diagnose a bad wheel bearing is to lift the vehicle up and grab the wheel top and bottom. Try and wiggle the wheel as if you're pulling it off the car. (Leave the lug nuts tight.) Now try the same thing side to side.

Both side to side AND top to bottom looseness is usually a wheel bearing.

Top and Bottom looseness only is usually a ball joint or control arm bushing.

Left to right is usually a tie rod or steering rack problem.

Problems with any of the above will usually show up as an alignment issue since the wheels won't stay straight going down the road. You may notice the vehicle wandering and have to correct the steering often. You may also notice excessive tire wear, reduced gas mileage, and possibly the feeling of something "dragging" the vehicle down IE sluggish performance.


All of the problems will only affect the vehicle while it's moving. NONE will exhibit problems while the vehicle is parked.

Quote:

It happens sometimes after starting and then randomly when driving, though I have to admit that I'm not sure exactly what the conditions are that it occurs. The latest mechanic drove it Friday and says it appears to be when he backs off the accelerator. He thinks that it's either the transmission or possibly caused by a frozen strut.


Strut is a suspension component. With a bad one, you'll feel a harsh ride or a lot of excess bouncing. Again, it's something that will only happen if the vehicle is moving.

If this noise happens while the vehicle is parked, look elsewhere.

Try and narrow the problems (Sounds like your vehicle has a few.) down to ones that occur only when the vehicle is moving and ones that happen when the vehicle is parked or moving.

Quote:

I was searching around on the internet and found a video, which shows the EXACT sound that my van makes. It sounds just like my van. However, I'm not sure from the comments what exactly the problem was and how it was resolved, as I run into the same problem that another commenter had - when I search for "throttle control" I get results that confuse me about what the throttle control actually is. (I'm not very mechanically inclined)

Video Link: http://youtu.be/TXdA_NE_u0E

I'm not sure if this is the "foghorn" noise that is referenced so often on this forum.


Anyway, I'd appreciate any assistance!

Other symptoms, no idea if they're related or not or if they've been resolved by anything that's been done:

** It also has (and has had, for years) a recurring problem with hesitation. I'm not sure if the hesitation is fixed after new spark plugs & wires, because while it didn't do it on our test drive Thursday, it doesn't do it every time you drive it.
The hesitation is much as described on numerous threads - when accelerating quickly (as to merge or cross traffic) and especially when accelerating uphills. It doesn't matter how long the van has been driven, and it doesn't usually do it when you first start off easily (as driving down my driveway or in a parking lot).
It seems to skip and lose power and then ZOOM off once it catches.


Is the Check Engine light on? If so, you can take the vehicle by any AutoZone or Advance Auto Parts and have them scan it for diagnostics codes with a little hand held computer.

If you have codes, post them up. They'll have a letter, usually "P" and four digits. Like P0300.

Have you had the transmission worked on at all recently? What's your transmission fluid look like? It should be a light pink or reddish, kinda like Robitussin or Grenadine. Brownish and burned smelling is definitely a bad thing.

Quote:

** It idles loudly. It used to be very quiet but now it's loud, I've noticed that it often seems to have a fairly high RPM at idle but, as I'm not mechanically inclined, I couldn't tell you what the number is.


You should see the idle RPM on the tachometer on the dashboard.
It should idle right around 700-750 RPM, so it should be 3/4ths of the way up to the 1 on the RPM scale.

Check this video for the high idle:
http://www.youtube.com/watch?NR=1&v=Qxrhivy5rDQ

Quote:

** It seems to be very hot. We don't have a paved driveway and anywhere I park, if it's left running for even a short length of time has a burned spot, degree of burning is determined by how long it idles there. In the 9 years I've had it, it's never lived on a "real" driveway, always parked in grass or dirt and the burning the grass is new within the last year.


Where do you live? In salt belt states where they used a lot of chemicals to melt snow on the roads, the heat shields rust off the exhaust components like the catalytic converter. Usually, you'd have heard a rattling noise from underneath as it loosened up. Once it's gone the grass is exposed to the hot exhaust components.

Not a big hazard, just watch out for tall, dry grass or leaves.

2003 ES - Coastal Blue Metallic - Side Airbags - Power Sliding Doors - Leather - Rear A/C (Original Options)

Self installed rear heat; heated mirrors, fog lights, large wiper bottle, Heavy duty wiper motor. Working on the whole 4-Seasons Package; Just need a transmission cooler.
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jborge
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Location: Vancouver, B.C.

PostPosted: Thu Aug 23, 2012 8:10 am    Post subject: Re: 2001 MPV Noise Identification -- please? Reply with quote

The sound is coming from your air box. I recognized it right off the bat in the beginning of the UTUBE video.

The sound will usually occur when RPMs are dropping through the 1500 mark. Usually during deceleration.

Go for a drive so the car warms up. Pull over and pop the hood. Put your finger on the Throttle Body and rev the engine up, then drop it down again, you should be able to hear the sound eventually.

I have the same problem and this is how I figured it out.

The source of the problem is the IAC valve most likely. In doing some research seems to point to this. I plan to clean mine first before replacing. It is a DIY job, or a quick 1 hour job for the mechanic. Part is around $70 - $130.

My throttle Body id also sticking, needs cleaning. Could also be related. Will let you know when I get to it.


It is a tough sound to trouble shoot as it sounds like a bearing problem or something rubbing.

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2001 Mazda MPV ES
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12Ounce
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PostPosted: Thu Aug 23, 2012 10:22 am    Post subject: Re: 2001 MPV Noise Identification -- please? Reply with quote

Ditto, ditto....

The IAC valve. For all the money you have already spent ... you could have bought a basket full of IAC valves.

Yes, the throttle body tends to stick on these engines .... make sure it is clean, free to move, and the external pivot and return spring is lubricated.

Yes, the engine is probably running hot if the (above) intake air is not exact ... watch the coolant and fan operation. Keep up with the hoses on the EGR system.

Quickly ... find a different mechanic!
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jborge
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Location: Vancouver, B.C.

PostPosted: Fri Sep 07, 2012 11:45 am    Post subject: Re: 2001 MPV Noise Identification -- please? Reply with quote

12Ounce wrote:
Ditto, ditto....

The IAC valve. For all the money you have already spent ... you could have bought a basket full of IAC valves.

Yes, the throttle body tends to stick on these engines .... make sure it is clean, free to move, and the external pivot and return spring is lubricated.

Yes, the engine is probably running hot if the (above) intake air is not exact ... watch the coolant and fan operation. Keep up with the hoses on the EGR system.

Quickly ... find a different mechanic!



Cleaning the IAC fixed the problem for me.

Here is a how to: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=zD3WPPRxuC4

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2001 Mazda MPV ES
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