gonna need some help on this!!!!

[ldelisle]

Well I think I either blew a head gasket or the engine!!!! Long story short had a fan problem, paid less attention to it than I should have, it got hot and gave out on me on I 95. Well I got it home and had the tow guy look at it, he said no compression. So being I got more time than I have money, and mpv engines are hard as hens teeth to find around here I thought I could tear it down and at least see whats wrong. I've changed a few head gaskets, but never in a van, and I've swapped out a few engines in vans. Its a 01 ES with a 2.5 DOHC engine in it. I've ordered a manual for it, but the tow guy says because of the dual cams I will probably screw up the timing when I pull the head. My first question is should I even try messing with it? Second should i pull the engine then work on it or should I leave it in the van? Can somebody help me out? You can message me here or email me @ ldelisle@hotmail.com. Thanks a lot.

Larry DeLisle

[nls]

http://forum.mpvclub.com/viewtopic.php?t=17913 - 12Ounce should be able to help you out.

[ldelisle]

Thanks alot thats a great thread I'll try to get in touch with him.....I've also seen some interesting post from Gen1Hawaii. Does he still come on her?

[Dan]

Gen1 hasn't posted in a couple of years (doesn't seem like it is that long ago) but if you go to his viewing profile

http://forum.mpvclub.com/profile.php?mode=viewprofile&u=488

there is an option to email him. You could always give that a try. And if you do get a hold of him, invite him back to the board!

[12Ounce]

The Mazda shop manual for the engine comes in two parts ... don't let that fool you like it did me. Get both Mazda manuals.

Read everything you can get your hands on about this engine before putting a wrench to it. Removing/installing the camshaft caps must be done in order!!! On the lower block, there are various lenghts of bolts for the oil splash shield and the crank caps ... make some kind of visual record as you disassemble/remove these! Many block bolts are stretch type and are not to be reused ... buy these ahead from your Ford dealer to save money. You can use a gasket set for the Ford Contour engine to save some bucks.

Haynes doesn't yet cover the MPV, but they do cover the 2.5liter in other models. For example, the mid-90's Ford Contour ... get this book also. AutoZone.com does now cover the MPV ... take advantage of this.

Cpashley sent me this pdf file link:
http://www.newcougar.org/gallery/users/16/25L-MAIN.pdf
It's a great source ... print it out ... about 130 pages. This was the one that became my garage bible ... got all the grease stains.

Rebuilding this engine ain't rocket science ... but it is science!

[12Ounce]

I choose to remove all parts from the block before removing the engine from the van. This is my usual way to rebuild an engine ... keeps the back-strain factor less. Therefore, when I removed the block .. it had no front cover, heads, rods or pistons ... only the crank was still in place.

During reinstallation of heads, I noticed that the air passages had not been cleaned by the head repair shop. I returned it to them for feedback on their assembly process ... being a good neighbor/customer and all. But during the second installation, I was too hurried and installed a cam follower backwards!!! This was a major boo-boo ... and could have been curtains for the engine ... but so far, after getting everything back in place, the engine seems to be OK.

[ldelisle]

Thanx 12 ounce,
One question should i start drinking again right away or should i wait? I'm starting my reading today these posts and the forum in general have helped enormously so far even though i haven't touched the beast yet i feel pretty confident. I'll keep you guys posted and i know i'll have a ton more questions. thanks again.........lar

[12Ounce]

I try to never keep a drink waiting ....

[12Ounce]

I took this note out of AutoZone.com's repair section for the Tribute 3.0:
"Do not install the camshaft journal thrust caps until all of the camshaft bearing caps have been installed, or damage to the thrust caps may occur. The thrust caps are marked 1L and 5L on early build engines and 1L and 6L on late build engines.

The same holds for disassembly ... that is, the thrust cap must be removed before the bearing caps are removed.

I also looked at the AutoZone.com's repair info for the MPV ... its terrible, the diagrams don't match the text, the text has errors, etc, etc. This info for the MPV is fairly new ... hopefully they will get it cleaned up in time.

If you can borrow a copy of a Haynes for the Ford Contour 2.5-V6 from a library and just read/copy the engine repair section concerning heads, cams and chains ... you will be good to go.

[12Ounce]

Another thing you may want to consider: Do an in-place repair on heads and valves ... and leave the short-block be. If you remove the front cover, cams and heads and find the heads to be NOT warped ... there's a likelihood that the block also is not going to be distorted. Remember, our engine also went "down" because of loss of coolant and overheating.

You should carry the heads to a reputable cylinder head repair shop (I still like Dover) for a valve and seat overhaul and a head general check-out. They will check your heads for cracks and straightness ... mine were OK. I further removed the short-block from the vehicle and carried to a shop ... it also was OK, in straightness and cylinder wear. I ended up replacing rings, bearings, lower gaskets and seals ... which gave the whole engine a fresh start ... but you may not choose to do that. A clean-up of the block "tops" and a check with a straight-edge could be all that is "needed".

I would recommend changing out the hydraulic cam chain tensioners as they are a little proned to failure. Choices! You could even spread block and tranny apart and replace the rear crank seal ... but you could also not. Just depends.

[ldelisle]

That sounds like a good idea I will look around for a head shop over here, is Dover a chain I'm in Fla, and all I've seen here are some local shops, but I'll get out the yellow pages tomorrow. I did want to do something with the tranny too. I think I will limit my time spent on it to how long the head shop takes. I did want to change out the fluid and is there a filter in there or something. Also I wanted to ask you about that SRS system and how careful should I be around the sensors. I'm more of the get a bigger hammer school, but I have mellowed out over the years. I would hate it if i hook the battery back up and the airbags go off. Thanks again ....lar

[12Ounce]

Dover does have several outlets ... Georgia and Tenn I know of ... not sure about Fla. I would feel comfortable dealing with them by phone and shipping back and forth.

The tranny is rather conventional in the pan and filter design.

I never even considered the SRS ...

[Nexus7]

[ldelisle]

Yea i checked everywhere they are a few out there but they're real expensive, i think i'm gonna take 12 ounces advice and do an in place upper end. i've been waiting for a manual but it didn't come and i'm getting of waiting so i started today. got some pics maybe i will post them later. thanks to all....lar

[ldelisle]

well i finally got the manual today it was worth the 50 bucks....still reading but it looks good. one question i do have am i going to have to buy all those special tools they talk about. A couple of them look like wheel pullers and they got a special tool for taking the fuel lines apart, and one looks like a bar to hang the engine by as i pull #3 engine mount....anybody have any experience with this?
lar