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Water Pump case leaking
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mazda-fla
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Joined: 23 Feb 2004
Posts: 738

PostPosted: Sat Jan 12, 2008 7:42 pm    Post subject: Re: Water Pump case leaking Reply with quote

This is the process I followed to replace the following parts; Water Pump assembly, Thermostat, Thermostat o-ring, upper radiator hose, lower radiator hose, and three way connector.

Tools needed; Open end wrench, socket, and deep dish socket - in 8 mm, 10 mm, and 12 mm sizes. Large cresent plyers, standard plyers, and long nose 45 degree angle plyers.

Cost; about $230 for all parts and supplies.

Other supplies; one gallon of antifreeze and one gallon of distilled water. Or two gallons of 50/50 premixed antifreeze.

Total time; There could be a big variance here, depending on how frozen the hoses are. Anywhere between 4 hours to 9 hours. Four hours if all hoses come off easy, or upwards to 9 hours if you have to fight with every hose. My job was closer to the 9 hours side, because every hose put up a fight to the bitter end. Everything was frozen.

Step 1. Remove the battery and battery tray.

Step 2. Drain the coolant by removing the drain plug at the bottom of the radiator. About a gallon will come out.

Step 3. Remove the splash shield on the water pump side of the van.

Step 4. Remove the water pump drive belt cover.

Step 5. Remove the water pump drive belt. Do this by rotating the belt tensioner clockwise by hand to release the drive belt tension and remove belt.



Step 6. Remove the upper radiator hose, lower radiator hose, three way connector hose, and water outlet hose. Then remove the thermostat housing and three way connector as a unit. Set the entire unit aside for now.





Step 7. Remove the small oil cooler hose from the bottom of the water pump. When you do this, have a catch pan ready because a gallon of coolant will dump out quickly when you remove that hose.

Step 8. Remove the three bolts holding the water pump assembly to the engine.



Step 9. Lift out the entire water pump assembly. You don't need to remove the pulley like it says in the workshop manual. Just leave it on. Also, just leave on the tensioner for now. Set the whole thing aside for now.

Step 10. Now comes the hard part. You have to remove the other end of the water pump outlet hose that connects at an awkward place deep down in the engine compartment. The only way I was able to get at that hose clamp was with a 45 degree angle long nose plyer.

This pic show where the hose runs under (in blue). And the angle where you have to insert the 45 degree long nose plyer to get to it to remove the hose clamp (in red). Also note that I had the hoses and water pump removed at this point, but I didn't have a pic for that, this pic is just to give you the idea of the location of the hose.



This is the type of plyer you need to get at the clamp:



Step 11. Now remove the belt tensioner from the old water pump. Do that by removing the single bolt that connects it to the water pump. Move the old belt tensioner over to the new water pump and reinstall it. Be careful, because the water pump is aluminum, and it would be easy to strip it when installing the steel bolt from the tensioner into it. Just snug it up enough to hold it on, don't overtighten it or you will strip it.

Step 12. Install the water pump to the engine with the three bolts you removed from the old one.

Step 13. Reinstall the small oil cooler hose to the bottom of the water pump.

Step 14. Go over to the thermostat hosing and three way connector you set aside ealier. Remove the three way connector and discard (if you are replacing it). Remove the two bolts that hold the thermostat housing together. Take the housing apart. Remove the o-ring. Remove the thermostat. Make note of the orientation of the thermostat. The giggle pin should be at the top, pointing up.

Step 15. Install a new thermostat in the housing with the giggle pin pointing up to the top. Install a new o-ring. Some people like to put a coat of ultra-grey silicone on the o-ring, but I didn't. I just installed the o-ring dry. Reassemble the two halfs of the thermostat housing. Install the new three-way connector to the thermostat housing (if you are replacing it.)

Step 16. Lower the three way connector and thermostat housing as a unit in the engine compartment, then reconnect all the hoses. Also, connect all the hoses for the water pump.

Step 17. If you are replacing the upper and lower radiator hose like I did, do that now. The lower hose on the radiator is easy to access with the splash shield removed. The upper hose may be a bit more difficult depending on the orientation of the hose clamp on the radiator. It might be easiy, or you might have to remove the front grill to get to it if it is turned around to the bottom.

Step 18. Reinstall splash shield.

Step 19. Reinstall battery tray and battery.

Step 20. Refill with two gallons of 50/50 premix antifreeze, or a gallon of full strength and a gallon of distilled water. Whatever is cheapest at the time of purchase. Do the refill based on the instructions in you owner's manual, depending whether or not you have rear heat.

Step 21. Check for leaks.
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cpapashley
MPVClub Fixture
The Wonder from Downunder
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Joined: 23 May 2006
Posts: 4586
Location: Brisbane, Australia

PostPosted: Sun Jan 13, 2008 1:31 am    Post subject: Re: Water Pump case leaking Reply with quote

Wonderful DIY

Brian can we maybe move this thread to DIY threads??

2000 MPV Seychelles Green 279,000 km
Custom Cold Air Intake, K&N Panel Filter
Custom Equal Length Headers and Y pipe
Hi Flow CAT, 2 1/2" with straight through exhaust....ohhhh it makes you smile......
MPV Club Sticker to finish off the package
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Jonathan Landrum
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Joined: 23 Aug 2008
Posts: 117

PostPosted: Sat Aug 23, 2008 5:56 pm    Post subject: Re: Water Pump case leaking Reply with quote

mazda-fla,

Where did you find the OEM water pump assembly for $113? I've only been able to find it for $160 or so.

Thanks.

Jonathan

2001 MPV V6, 214k
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mpvinnig
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Joined: 30 Mar 2013
Posts: 784

PostPosted: Mon May 18, 2015 10:56 am    Post subject: Re: Water Pump case leaking Reply with quote

Jonathan Landrum wrote:
mazda-fla,

Where did you find the OEM water pump assembly for $113? I've only been able to find it for $160 or so.

Thanks.

Jonathan


Once the case leaks, the pump must be replaced, otherwise the vehicle will overheat, i strongly encourage that inspection of the vehicle should include inspecting the water pump for leakages. it has happened to me
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mpvinnig
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Posts: 784

PostPosted: Fri Mar 04, 2016 4:03 am    Post subject: Re: Water Pump case leaking Reply with quote

Once the water pump case leaks, you are living on borrowed time.

I have dissected a worn out ( read that to mean leaking water pump), it is a design thing.

It was built to fail at some point in time.

Will post pictures to proof this assertion.

It is pointless attempting to remedy the situation, the pump must be replaced to reset the clock of 60,000 miles till the next failure
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hildac07
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Joined: 05 Jan 2018
Posts: 206

PostPosted: Sat Jan 13, 2018 2:27 pm    Post subject: Re: Water Pump case leaking Reply with quote

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